Hi there,
Has anyone successfully removed the power button from a 1010 for cleaning without removing the circuit board from the chassis?
I've removed and cleaned out all of the other buttons, but I can't get the second plate moved to the left far enough to allow the power button to spring out.....if that makes sense? It doesn't seem to operate the same as say the independent button for tape monitor which is removed easily.
I've managed to get liquid deoxit in to the switch by dripping it though the hole in the top and into the back of it. But this 1010 still cracks and distorts when twitched on.
I've tried and failed to remove this button on a few machines and I'm beginning to think it's not supposed to be removed insitu.
If anyone has had any experience or success with this can you please let me know.
Best regards
Keith
Hi again,
I've cleaned the 1010 up and replaced the fm cord now but I'm still getting loud and a potentially speaker damaging snap, crackle and pop through the speakers when I switch it on. The crackling also continues for about 10 seconds after it's switched off. I think it's the power button because the noise is in both speakers and because the contact plates in the other buttons were badly corroded.
I've attached a sound file of the noise.
If anyone has any suggestions of what the cause actually is and can suggest a repair I would be very grateful.
Keith
Hi Keith,
I am not 100% sure how to solve this. But let's think about it..
You say the crackling sound has a duration of 10 sec after power up.
Then how about you leave power switch on and use the cable to power it up? (=pull out and in)
You can also use a cable with a switch, like a cord for a lamp or such.
Then you will hear if the crackle appears, if it does = likely the switch is not the problem.
Listening to your recording it does sound like a contact problem.
But I would still guess that it is likely that the switch is not the problem. It might be, but I would make sure to rule out ALL other problems before removing it and specially opening it up because that is not a piece o' cake to do that.
Have you cleaned it thoroughly? Lots of deoxit. Wash with IPA. Then some cleaner with lube. I recommend Electrolube SGB treatment grease 2GX for stuck or not smoothly operating mechanical switches. But that is probably not your problem here.
I would suspect a capacitor problem. How much service did you give it?
Are the output caps new? The power supply caps in the pre amp and power amp?
Sorry for the delay in replying - work has gotten in the way and I wanted to get my reply accurate to help correctly isolate and solve this problem, not just for myself but for anyone who encounters this difficulty in the future.
Before the clean up I removed all the petrick and schadow switches (except the power button) - the internal contacts were pretty green with corrosion from previously applied vaseline lube.
To clean the switches all of the pressure and spring contacts were removed from the plungers and dipped overnight in Deoxit D100L. They were then cleaned again overnight in ISO, and once spotless dried for a day.
With the plungers removed I cleaned the inside of the switch housings with deoxit and ISO, then dried for a day. The plungers were cleaned with Servisol foam anti-static cleanser 30 (great stuff for cleaning anything hifi related).
Once the contacts were reinstalled on the plunger, they were again brushed with ISO, dried, and finally sprayed with Deoxit gold G100L for improved contact and lube.
I didn't change any capacitors as I wanted to see if cleaning solved the problems that I mentioned before but it didn't...….although it's very clean now!!
It was great idea you had to remove the plug from the wall instead of using the power switch. The crackling now doesn't happen which suggests that the power switch is one of the problems?
I needed i'll have a go removing the power switch for cleaning because I don't think that crackle sound will go unless I do this?? - I did inject liquid deoxit in though the front and the top of the switch housing but that hasn't worked.
The other problem is the sharp squeal when the unit is powered on at the socket. I have disconnected each speaker one at a time and it occurs in the left channel.
There is a amount small residual DC that makes the speaker voice coil move when the speaker cable is reconnected to the speaker while the machine is off. I measured the DC output voltage which is pretty good at 9mv left and 3mv on the right.
You mentioned a possible capacitor problem, they are original CAR and Frako's on this machine. The trouble is I don't know enough to identify which capacitor would cause this problem - from previous reading on the internet it could be final output caps?
I have not changed capacitors before but I have become pretty good with a solder iron (if you ignore melting the FM cord while soldering in a new signal meter!) and I am keen to give it a go with help from the forum
